Biker shorts back in fashion thanks to the Tour de France

For over ten days now, the sports world has had its eyes on France, and it’s not because of its southern beaches that are tempting in this heat, nor its historic cities that attract crowds of tourists at the start of summer. In this mid-July period, starting from Lille with the aim of reaching Paris through no fewer than 21 stages, including Courchevel, Montpellier, and Toulouse, the Tour de France is in full swing. But we won’t pretend to be sports experts any longer: what really interests us in this globally renowned event isn’t the cyclists, their bike brands, or even their time records, but what they wear. This year is special for the Tour de France, which not only celebrates its 50th anniversary but also returns to the Champs Elysées, which were off-limits last year due to the Paris Olympic Games. Just for this, a special jersey collection — soon to be unveiled — has been created. But the real star of the cycling wardrobe, which has become a fashion staple even for non-athletes, isn’t the tight jersey or Oakley sunglasses, but the biker shorts.

With a name that honors cycling enthusiasts, biker shorts — also known as scuba pants or biker shorts — have become a true must-have, both for athletes and homebodies. While they appeared in the early 70s, at a time when thinness was trendy and aerobics and fitness were women’s new obsession — followed via VHS tapes — the biker shorts quickly left the cycling path and entered women’s wardrobes. Popularized by style icons like Lady Diana and Madonna, they soon found their way to Fashion Week runways. In SS91, Chanel, under Karl Lagerfeld, had Linda Evangelista walk the runway with a short haircut, white shirt, and biker shorts adorned with massive belts on the back. Biker shorts officially made it into high fashion. Yet it would take over a decade before they appeared on runways again. In 2014, again for Chanel, they returned in the Haute Couture collection, worn under A-line dresses and tunics, reinterpreting 90s codes. The Rue Cambon house revisited them once more for SS19, presenting them under the glass dome of the Grand Palais, blending them with blazers, tweed, and heavy accessories. SS19 was indeed the peak moment for biker shorts, also seen at Fendi — styled with the double F and belts — and Prada. Two years later, in SS21, they were once again highlighted in resort collections by Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, and Balmain. 

In a completely different style, they also regularly appeared in the work of the king of streetwear, Virgil Abloh, who in 2018 for Off-White showcased white biker shorts worn by Naomi Campbell, inspired by one of Lady Di’s iconic outfits. More recently, they also made a splash at the Vogue World event held in Paris last year, which highlighted stylized sports elements on the runway, underlining how sportswear has evolved into high fashion. While biker shorts once earned Demi Moore the Worst Dressed title at the Oscars — where she wore a corset, black and gold train, and matching biker shorts — the garment has since proven it deserves a place in every fashionista’s wardrobe. Today, with the rise of the clean girl aesthetic and pilates princess look, along with the gorp core trend, biker shorts continue to shine — and not just in the Tour de France. Who would’ve thought that Eddy Merckx would one day become a global fashion reference?